A leaking tank is something we've all experienced, but it's usually pretty easy to fix if you can identify the reason for the leakage.
Leakage happens when your atomiser is flooded and the e-liquid will usually find its way out of the airflow system. If you've got a tank which is flooding, gurgling or leaking, you'll have a poor vaping experience, and you'll want to try to fix it because it could harm your device or cause it to fail if it reaches the electronics.
The first thing to understand is that tanks and heads designed for Direct Lung (DL) vaping are generally designed for a thicker, higher VG liquid and usually feature larger wicking holes to wick liquid faster to the coil to keep up with higher coil temperatures/wattages. If you're using too thin a liquid in a DL tank, you are likely to experience leaking. Mouth-to-lung (MTL) tanks usually have smaller wick holes, are used at much lower wattages and tend to wick juice slower to avoid flooding. Typically most MTL tanks will not cope with a very high VG liquid because of this. So if you're using the wrong liquid for the type of tank or head, you're likely to experience either leakage, or the opposite - poor wicking and dry coils prone to burning.
Other than trying to use the wrong liquid or tank for your vaping style, common reasons for flooding include:
What to do once your coil has flooded or leaked
Different methods work for different tanks - try one or more of the following to recover a flooded head.
Some heads are just more flood prone than others, particularly if you have quite a heavy “draw” and some may continue to flood even after blowing out, especially if the tank or coil isn't suited to your vaping style or your power settings are outside those recommended by the manufacturer.
Back when the only devices available were mechanical, with no voltage or wattage control, we were pioneers in commissioning custom resistance atomisers and making them generally available to vapers so our customers could tailor their vaping experience to provide the best flavour, heat, vapour and throat-hit for their own personal vaping style. This post used to explain the different types of atomisers we had available, but has now been updated to take account of current technology.
This article has been re-written due to advances in technologies and the introduction of more advanced electronic devices which can control the voltage or wattage of your device.
Briefly:
With a mechanical device, the lower the resistance, the hotter the vape, and the quicker the juice (and the battery) is used. If a variable wattage device is used, it’s all handled internally, and the voltage is adjusted, based on the wattage you choose and the resistance of the atomiser. Essentially, as long as the resistance of the coils you’re using is within the range recommended for your device, it doesn’t really matter which resistance you select.
Anything from 1.5-3.0Ω is suitable for most variable wattage devices, with many devices now accepting coils as low as 1.2Ω or even lower.
Sub-ohm atomisers
The use of very low resistance atomisers is often referred to as "sub-ohming", because the atomisers and coils used are lower than 1.0Ω.
Sub-ohming is growing in popularity as more vaping enthusiasts strive to take their hobby to the next level, but there are concerns related to battery safety as well as the fact that sub-ohmers tend to vape much more liquid than other vapers, and this increases their exposure to the as-yet unknown risks related to inhalation of larger quantities of food flavourings.
Battery technology has moved on with many higher drain rate batteries now available, however, if you wish to use sub-ohm devices, you do so entirely at your own risk and must make sure the battery device you are using is fully capable of safely supporting the required drain rate. We strongly recommend you thoroughly research the topic before embarking on any experiments with sub-ohming.
We will not accept any responsibility for any damage caused by sub-ohming activity.